Ireland with Zingerman’s Food Tours Through the eyes of tour guide - Mara Ferguson

Hello Travelers,

Three times now I’ve had the pleasure of visiting Ireland and shepherding hungry travelers around the republic with our friends at Bog & Thunder. Despite the sometimes gray, wet and windy weather it has managed to completely capture my heart and tap into a spirit within me I had yet to find.

Ireland is a country that is wrapped in fantastical ideas, lore and humility. Egos are hard to find and that’s probably because the landscape, history - and the fairies - are very humbling.

The butter yellow, the landscapes edible, and the herds free roaming. It all feels so perfectly fresh and untouched.

Ideas like a strawberry milkshake with a lovage straw, butter infused with seaweed that mimics truffles, and a salad plucked from the wilds of the chef’s urban back garden are all very Irish ideas to me. Humble, creative, delicious and special because it was all right under your nose. All this is likely due to the history that has created a culture of "making it work" paired with the resurgence of organic small farms, international influence and homegrown culinary programs igniting the creativity of young chefs.

One of the things I move most in life is juxtaposition. This mixing of soft and hard, light and heavy, a very femme top with a masculine shoe, a warm cozy bed on a luxury estate after a cold and wet day. The humor in it feels very good and keeps my spirit even keel. So humor me while I tell you a story about my favorite day in Ireland on my first ever trip there.

It was a cold and rainy day in West Cork, Ireland - as so many are in the Fall. We had just been walking through the forest and along the shore in a downpour for a good 120 minutes (it’s more dramatic to count the minutes). I wished to myself that I had brought a back up sweater as my “rain jacket” had proven itself otherwise. Inside I was whining incessantly, outside I was a good host going with the flow.

We were back at The Keep, under shelter and in the warm embrace of Sally Barnes. It’s a rugged but well thought out space with only the essentials. Sally was stirring up a pot of potato stew while we passed around a bottle of Poitín and helped her team clean the ingredients that we had foraged in the rain.

Now outside I watched Sally roll a cigarette in one hand and pointing to her herb patch with the other hand, giving me a tour, plucking a leaf of nasturtium for me to taste, this small act felt incredibly special and new. She was kind, warm, no ego, just her mischievous smile and bright mind. She is renowned in her craft, passionate in her activism - it's the calling and culmination of her life story.

Swinging her free hand, Sally pointed uphill and mentioned to the group nearby that was admiring the makeshift fire pit that, “there is a good view up there, shame it isn’t clearer”.

We head back into the keep and continue to pass the Poitín and huddle together to keep warm. Someone mentions that the clouds have cleared, and just like that a group is out the door heading off to see the view. I follow, and when I come to the cow path I stop. I look down to my feet. Cows pass through there regularly and they’ve left their markings… on top of markings. I think to myself, ‘it’s cold. I’m wet… I don’t think I’m up for it.” Truth was, I couldn’t physically drum up the guts to step into three inches of poo.… What if I slip on the incline and end up face first in this? No way.

Around me a guest whirred, basically leaping over me with excitement to see what was at the top of the hill… she sensed my hesitation and said “it’s ok, cows are vegetarians”. So with a belly full of confidence (aka Poitín) and a desire to be bold like Sally I trekked out of my comfort zone and upwards.

Atop the hill was not only a casual ancient cow fort with stones still perfectly laid, but the most amazing sweeping view of the rugged and magical west cork coastline I’d seen.

After taking in the view, I was no longer cold. Instead I was filled with a sense of reckless adventure - not ideal for someone in charge of your safety - I quickly reigned it back in time for dinner.

Every view in Ireland is a one I live to return to.

If you’re looking for a bit of adventure and a desire to see what’s right under your nose consider joining us in Ireland in 2025.

See you on the road,

- Mara

Zingerman’s Food Tour Guide

Ireland

September 16-24, 2025

Northern Ireland

May 15-23, 2025

Why Choose Zingerman's Food Tours?

With years of experience curating unforgettable culinary experiences, we pride ourselves on our small group sizes, expert guides, and a commitment to supporting local communities.

Our Food Tours take you to the source. If you’re hungry to explore behind the scenes, come with us. We use food & wine to connect to the history of a region, the spirit of its people, and the rhythm of daily life. Zingerman’s Food Tours is your concierge to the best local guides, food, and cultural experiences. Relax, enjoy, and experience the best, because of our long-standing connections in the food and travel world.Why Choose Zingerman's Food Tours?

With years of experience curating unforgettable culinary experiences, we pride ourselves on our small group sizes, expert guides, and a commitment to supporting local communities.