Wine and cheese history of Jura, France: Lyon & Jura VOL: 2
Greetings, Travelers!
Welcome to Volume 2 of our spotlight on Lyon & Jura, France.
The Jura region of France, nestled between Burgundy and Switzerland, boasts a rich culinary and wine-making heritage shaped by its geography, climate, and history. Known for its distinctive wines and hearty cuisine, Jura offers a fascinating blend of tradition and innovation.
Here's an overview…
Wine of Jura
Did you know that the Jura is the smallest wine region in France? Tucked away in the hills, this hidden gem spans only 2,000 hectares, and we’re excited to tell you all about it.
The Jura's vineyards are located on slopes with limestone and marl soils, benefiting from a continental climate. These conditions contribute to wines with pronounced acidity and exceptional aging potential.
The Jurassic 5—The region is made up of five special appellations: Arbois, Château-Chalon, Côtes du Jura, L'Étoile, and Macvin du Jura.
Grape Varieties:
White: Savagnin (the signature grape), Chardonnay (locally called Melon d'Arbois).
Red: Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir.
What makes the jura special? Vin Jaune ("yellow wine") is one of the most iconic and fascinating wines of the Jura region, celebrated for its unique production method, rich history, and distinct flavor profile. Often likened to sherry but entirely its own, Vin Jaune is a product of tradition, patience, and meticulous care. Made exclusively from the Savagnin grape, a white varietal that thrives in the region's limestone and marl soils. After fermentation, the wine is aged in oak barrels for a minimum of six years and three months. During this time, a thin layer of yeast (voile) forms on the wine's surface, protecting it from oxidation while imparting distinctive flavors—developing complex, oxidative characteristics with notes of nuts, dried fruits, spices, and a saline tang.
Cheese of Jura—Morbier and Comté
Morbier and Comté cheeses hail from the Jura Mountains in eastern France, a region renowned for its rich cheesemaking tradition that dates back centuries. Though distinct in character, these cheeses share deep ties to the cultural and culinary heritage of the Franche-Comté region.
Comté is one of the oldest French cheeses and has been produced since at least the 12th century. Born out of necessity by farmers in the remote Jura mountains. They needed a way to preserve surplus milk from their herds during the long winters. Villagers collaborated to pool their milk, creating large wheels of cheese that could age for months. These cooperative efforts laid the groundwork for the fruitières, the traditional cheesemaking cooperatives still in operation today.
Comté is a pressed, cooked cheese made from raw cow’s milk, primarily from Montbéliarde or Simmental cows. Each wheel weighs about 80 pounds and is aged in special caves for 4 to 24 months, developing its nutty, buttery, and slightly fruity flavors. The terroir, the cows' diet, and the skill of the cheesemaker all contribute to the nuanced flavor profiles of Comté, which can range from floral and sweet to savory and robust.
Protected by the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) designation since 1958, Comté reflects the region's deep connection to artisanal cheesemaking. It is one of the most consumed cheeses in France and plays a key role in regional dishes such as Fondue Comtoise and Gratins.
Morbier emerged as a practical solution for small-scale dairy farmers. Traditionally, leftover curds from Comté production were pressed into molds, forming the base layer of Morbier. To protect the cheese during the night, a thin layer of ash from wood fires or vegetable ash was sprinkled over it. The next day, a new layer of curds was added atop the ash, creating the iconic black stripe running through the middle of the cheese.
Morbier is a semi-soft cheese made from raw or pasteurized cow's milk. Its texture is creamy and supple, with a mild, tangy flavor and hints of fruit and nuts. The ash, initially a practical measure, has become a signature aesthetic feature. Over time, Morbier transitioned from a cheese of convenience to a delicacy in its own right, gaining AOC protection in 2000.
Today, Morbier is celebrated for its unique appearance and taste, often enjoyed as part of a cheese board or melted in traditional dishes like Tartiflette. Its evolution reflects the adaptability of Jura cheesemakers, who have preserved its rustic origins while elevating its status.
Both Morbier and Comté are products of the same mountainous terrain, sharing a reliance on the lush pastures of the Jura and the craftsmanship of local cheesemakers. While Comté represents the grandeur and versatility of hard, aged cheeses, Morbier embodies ingenuity and tradition with its striking visual and softer palate. Together, they exemplify the rich diversity and culinary significance of French cheese culture.
Zingerman’s Food Tours will take a deep dive into this beautiful and often untraveled part of France this April. We invite you to come along.
See you on the road,
Kristie
Zingerman’s Food Tours Managing Partner
Lyon and Jura, France
April 9-16, 2025 7 seats remaining